Overdue News, and lots of it!

 I've been working on a number of changes to my class set up, and I've been holding off on making any new announcements until everything is sorted out. Now that it's all done, I have a backlog of news to get out!

New Location

Starting in January, Ottawa Classical Swordplay classes will be at the Ottawa Japan Karate Association dojo at 475 Cambridge Street South. It's a big beautiful space with hardwood floors, change rooms, showers, and a viewing lounge, very close to Carling and Bronson. Check out their website at http://www.ottawajka.com

I'm really excited about this move. It is a bigger space, and really suited to swordplay classes. There are a few new policies that come with the space. The first is that we will have an absolutely strict rule that the only shoes permitted will be non-marking, soft-soled, indoor-only shoes. The JKA students train barefoot, and the floor is beautiful. We will not damage it.

Second, out of respect for the traditions of the JKA, all students will bow as they enter or leave the dojo proper. I haven't been asked to do this by the JKA, but it is something I personally feel very strongly about. We are guests in their space, so we should give it the same respect that they do.

New Year's Day Open House

January 1^st is the first official day that Ottawa Classical Swordplay is in the dojo. I won't be holding an actual class, but I will be there from 2:00 to 4:00 pm. Come by and meet me, try on some armour, see the new space, check out the training swords, and ask me any questions you have about Ottawa Classical Swordplay.

New Schedule

With the new location comes a new schedule as well.

Tuesdays 6:00 -7:30 pm: Renaissance Duelling.

Tuesday night classes focus on the rapier and related weapons from the late 16^th and early 17^th centuries. January 4^th to February 8^th is a foundations level course for rapier and dagger. February 1^st and 8^th are authorization days (see “New Program” below).

Thursdays 6:00 – 7:30 pm: Medieval Combat.

Thursday night classes focus on medieval combat from the 14^th and 15^th centuries, mostly taken from German manuscripts. The weapons used include sword, longsword, spear, pollaxe, grossemesser, dagger, buckler, and empty hand. In January 6^th to February 10^th is an open level sword/grossemesser course.

Saturdays 2:00 – 3:30 pm: Medieval Swordplay for Kids and Families.

This class is designed to be accessible both to kids and adults. Most training will be done with padded weapons, and focuses on use of the medieval longsword in two hands as shown in medieval German sources. This is an ongoing program, and novices may join at any time. Students aged eight to adult all welcome. Bring your parents; they want to learn swordplay too! This program begins on January 8^th, but there is no class on January 22^nd (see “Road Trip” below).

Saturdays 3:30 -5:00 pm : Medieval Swordplay for Adults.

This class exclusively focuses on the use of the longsword in two hands as shown in medieval German manuscripts. This program begins on January 8^th, but there is no class on January 22^nd (see “Road Trip” below). January 8^th to February 19^th is a foundations course. February 12^th and 19^th are authorization days.

New Program

In addition to six-week courses, Ottawa Classical swordplay will once again be offering an ongoing program. The courses are integrated into the program, and there will always be at least one foundations level course available. Foundations courses are important for all students, but especially geared towards getting novices started, with more focus on basic skills and less freeplay. Foundations courses will always include at least one “authorization day,” where novices can demonstrate that they can join open freeplay safely.

There will also be open courses, which anyone can join, and open classes. The only difference between the two is that open courses will be a set six-week course on a particular subject, where an open class can cover anything within the program curriculum. Every open course/class will include a set time dedicated to freeplay for those who have passed an authorization. On the whole, this means that there will be more classes with freeplay!

New Competition

This year we will be implementing a new competition. Each participant will achieve a rank in each program based on freeplay, and be able to challenge those who are above them in the rankings. At the end of the year, the highest ranked participants will be given prizes. More details will be available soon.

New membership options

In an effort to make my program schedule work for more people, I am offering more ways to sign up. You can still sign up on a course by course basis, but there are lots of other options.

Course membership: $80

With a course membership, you can come to all of the classes for a specific six-week course.

Punch cards.

Instead of paying by the course, you can purchase a punch card and get access to any class you want, on your own schedule. You have a few options for how many classes you purchase on your card. Present your card at each class and we will punch one class use. All punch cards are valid for one year from the date of issue, and are non-transferable.

Three class trial card: $25

This trial card is a special offer only available to new members, one per customer. You can try up to three classes at a discounted rate. Try a few classes, and see what you like.

Six class drop-in card: $100

Twenty class drop-in card: $250

Want to take a few courses, but can only make it to some of the classes? Want to try all of our programs but have an erratic schedule? If you buy one of these punch cards, you only pay for the classes that you actually attend.

Annual program membership: $500

Program memberships allow you to take all the classes in a specific program for a year. If you can come every week, but only to one class, this is the best deal for you. Valid for one year from the date of issue.

Annual general membership: $1000

Like the annual program membership, but this gets you in to every class available for a year. This is for the truly hardcore. Valid for one year from date of issue.

Road Trip!

On February 22^nd and 23^rd, I will be in Maryland at a historical European martial arts conference called Longpoint. This is a pretty big event, and I willll be showcasing my interpretation of RA manuscript I.33 “The Clerus Lutegerus Fechtbuch” to an international audience. Normally I would have my main assistant instructor John fill in for me here, but he will be busy helping with the demo! So there will be no class on Saturday, January 22.

However, if anyone else wants to make the trip, there is a great line up of instructors at Longpoint! Check here for details: http://fightlongpoint.com/

Whew!

As you can see, things are continuing to grow. I've got even more in the works, but I think that this update has been long enough. Best wishes to all for the holidays, and I hope to see everyone in the new year!

November and December Course Update

Schedule Changes

I've modified the schedule for November and December slightly. The Youth Swordplay course has been moved from Monday to Thursday at 6:45. This pushes the Early Medieval Sword and Shield class back to 7:45, and unfortunately means that the R+D class is canceled temporarily. Other classes on Sunday and Monday are unchanged.

The Youth Swordplay class has also been modified slightly, in that I will be teaching longsword in two hands instead of single sword. The main advantage of this change is that it is easier to hold and move a sword with two hands than one. The techniques are very similar.

Workshops

I have also added two workshops at the Knights of Columbus Hall to the schedule. Medieval Sword and Shield on Sunday November 14^th, from 1:30 until 5:30 pm, and Rapier for the Duel on Saturday December 11^th, from 9:00 am until 4:00 pm (with a break for lunch). More details on these seminars can be found below.

The Battlefield Workshop is still scheduled for Sunday, October 31 from 10:00 am until noon. Please let me know in advance if you plan to attend.

Free Stuff!

I'm offering a small promotion for November and December. I may need to run the official text by my legal department, but the essence is this; if you sign up for a course, and convince someone else to sign up as well, I'll give you a free pair of leather gloves suitable for swordplay practice ($20 value). Convince two friends to join, and you can choose a buckler or throat protector instead ($50 value). Convince four friends to sign up, and I will upgrade your free gift to a practice sword (Alchem 'scarf sword' only, $150 value).

The freebies aren't cumulative, but you can mix and match a bit. For example, if you and five friends all sign up, you could choose a sword and a pair of gloves, or a buckler, throat-protector and pair of gloves, or five pairs of gloves, or any similar combination.

For the giveaway, you can also be your own friend! If you sign up for more than one course yourself, each course beyond the first counts as convincing a friend to join.

How to sign up!

I still have not set up my official website which will allow for direct registration and payments. Unfortunately, I keep pushing this down my priority list as more immediate needs come up.

In the meantime, there are a few ways you can register. If you email me with your intent to register, I will hold a spot for you in the course or workshop. At that point, you can either send me payment by paypal, or I can send you a paypal invoice. You don't have to register with paypal to pay by credit card through them, and there are no extra transaction fees for you. The other option is that you can pay in person by cash or cheque at the class. Just let me know what option you prefer.

As a general rule, I also let you try a class before you commit. If you really aren't sure, come and try the first class of any course. Unfortunately, I can't offer that same service for one off workshops. In both cases, though, please let me know in advance if you plan to attend, especially if you need loaner equipment.

Updated Schedule

Battlefield Workshop

Sunday, October 31, 10:00 am- 12:00 noon at the Glebe Community Centre, 175 Third Ave.
This two hour workshop covers the basics of sword combat with multiple opponents. Specific strategies and tactics will be taught rather than personal swordsmanship. All skill levels of any sword background are invited to participate.
Workshop cost: $25

Sword and Buckler Workshop

Sunday, November 14, 1:30 pm- 5:30 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
This four hour workshop is an intensive study of the system of combat for sword and buckler presented in Royal Armouries Manuscript 1.33, “The Clerus Lutegerus Fechtbuch.” Written circa 1300, this is the oldest European personal combat manual.
Workshop cost: $40

Duelling with Rapier Workshop

Saturday, December 11, 9:00 am- 3:00 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
This workshop provides six hours of instructional time with a break for lunch. Lunch will be provided, so please inform me of any special dietary considerations. This workshop will cover rapier techniques aimed at formalized single combat. We will also cover the basics of etiquette and behaviour surrounding the duel, to give a better understanding of the culture of the duel. Beginners are welcome. The program will start with a foundations overview, but we will move quickly into competitive freeplay, and then the formal process of the duel.
Workshop cost: $75

Grossemesser: Swordsmanship for the Medieval Commoner

Sundays, 10:15 - 11:45 am at the Glebe Community Centre, 175 Third Ave.
Nov. 7, 14, 21, 28, Dec. 5, 12 (six classes)
This class is a foundations level course in the use of the grossemesser (“big knife”). The grossemesser was a machete-like weapon and tool used by the common folk of medieval Germany. The material for this course is drawn primarily from Johannes Lecküchner's fechtbuch published in 1482.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Youth Longsword
Thursdays 6:45-7:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Nov. 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, Dec. 6 (six classes)
This is a foundations-level course in medieval longsword in two hands.. Material is drawn from several German fechtbucher from the 14^th to the 16^th century.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Duelling with Rapier and Dagger
Mondays 7:45-8:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Nov. 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, Dec. 6 (six classes)
This is an intermediate course, adding the use of the dagger and other secondary weapons to our basic rapier system.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Early Medieval Sword and Shield
Thursdays, 7:45-9:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Nov. 4, 11, 18, 25, Dec 2, 9 (six classes)
The Material for this course is drawn from Royal Armouries Manuscript 1.33, “The Clerus Lutegerus Fechtbuch.” Written circa 1300, this is the oldest European personal combat manual.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

That's all for now! I hope to see you at class!

Fall Schedule

I've finalized my schedule for the first round of fall courses, and I've set up a tentative schedule for round two. I'm going to try and stick to certain themes in certain time-slots, but still offer some variety. Sunday mornings will be medieval weapon classes, while Monday evenings will focus on renaissance and possibly even more recent historical weapons. Thursdays will be a bit more varied, with an R&D session after the main class. I'm also continuing to offer youth classes, although I'm moving them to Monday night.

I'm also planning a few workshops. Only one of these is confirmed at this time, which is a Battlefield tactics class on the morning of Hallowe'en. It will be a lot of fun, and will definitely be a case of “the more the merrier.” Other workshops will most likely be scheduled for Saturday afternoons, and I'll post details when they are available.

September-October Courses

Late Medieval Sword and Shield Sundays, 10:15 - 11:45 am at the Glebe Community Centre, 175 Third Ave.
Sept. 12, 19, 26, Oct. 3, 17, 24 (six classes)
This class is a foundations level course in medieval sword and shield. The material is drawn from a number of sources, mostly from the 15^th century.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Youth Swordplay
Mondays 6:45-7:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Sept. 13, 20, 27, Oct. 4, 18, 25 (six classes)
This is a foundations-level course in medieval swordplay for ages 9-15.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Duelling with the Rapier
Mondays 7:45-9:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Sept. 13, 20, 27, Oct. 4, 18, 25 (six classes)
This is our standard Rapier foundation program. The material is inspired by a variety of historical sources but compiled into a cohesive and effective system of personal combat based on survival.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Elizabethan Broadsword
Thursdays, 6:45-8:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Sept. 16, 23, 30, Oct. 14, 21, 28 (six classes)
This class is a foundations level course in the use of the English basket-hilt sword according to George Silver's Paradoxes of Defense, published in 1599.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Research and DevelopmentThursdays, 8:15-9:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Sept. 16, 23, 30, Oct. 14, 21, 28 (six classes)
This class is open to all current adult students. The current focus of our research is 15^th century grossemesser (“big knife,” the sword of the common man). Other material may be covered as well.
Course cost: Free!

Battlefield WorkshopSunday, October 31, 10:00 am- 12:00 noon at the Glebe Community Centre, 175 Third Ave.
This two hour workshop covers the basics of sword combat with multiple opponents. Specific strategies and tactics will be taught rather than personal swordsmanship. All skill levels of any sword background are invited to participate.
Workshop cost: $25

November-December Courses

Grossemesser: Swordsmanship for the Medieval CommonerSundays, 10:15 - 11:45 am at the Glebe Community Centre, 175 Third Ave.
Nov. 7, 14, 21, 28, Dec. 5, 12 (six classes)
This class is a foundations level course in the use of the grossemesser (“big knife”). The grossemesser was a machete-like weapon and tool used by the common folk of medieval Germany. The material for this course is drawn primarily from Johannes Lecküchner's fechtbuch published in 1482.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Youth Sword and Shield
Mondays 6:45-7:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Nov. 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, Dec. 6 (six classes)
This is a foundations-level course in medieval sword and shield for ages 9-15. Material is drawn from RA manuscript I.33 ,“The Clerus Lutegerus Fechtbuch.”
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Duelling with Rapier and Dagger
Mondays 7:45-8:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Nov. 1, 8, 15, 22, 29, Dec. 6 (six classes)
This is an intermediate course, adding the use of the dagger and other secondary weapons to our basic rapier system.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Early Medieval Sword and Shield
Thursdays, 6:45-8:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Nov. 4, 11, 18, 25, Dec 2, 9 (six classes)
The Material for this course is drawn from Royal Armouries Manuscript 1.33, “The Clerus Lutegerus Fechtbuch.” Written circa 1300, this is the oldest European personal combat manual.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Research and DevelopmentThursdays, 8:15-9:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave.
Nov. 4, 11, 18, 25, Dec 2, 9 (six classes)

This class is open to all current adult students. The main focus of our research in November and December will be 19^th Century sabre drawn from Alfred Hutton's Cold Steel. Other material may be covered as well.
Course cost: Free!

Summer Research and Development classes

Summer has been slipping away too fast, but I am running one ongoing class. Thursdays at the Knights of Columbus Hall, we will be working with manuals and related videos to build our knowledge base on pollaxe and grossemesser* combat. These classes are intended for people who have some experience in one of our existing programs, but do not require specific experience with the weapons involved. Bring masks, gorgets, gloves and a single handed sword (for grossemesser training) if you have them.

Medieval Combat Research and Development
Explore new or expanded historical material. Open to experienced students.
Current Focus: 15th century “Grossemesser,” and/or Pollaxe.
During the summer this program is free.
Thursdays, 7:15-8:45 pm, Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone Ave, Ottawa
Gear: Uniform, Fencing Mask, Gorget, Gloves, Practice Weapon.

*A grossemesser (literally a "big knife") was a machete-like weapon and tool common in medieval Germany.

Due to a sudden surge in interest, I have extended and split my Thursday evening booking at the Knights of Columbus Hall and can now confirm that I will be running a Youth Swordplay course from 6:45 until 7:45.

This also means that the Duelling with Rapier class will be moving by a half hour and will now run from 7:45-915.

I am making the youth class available to kids aged 9-15, although I welcome the parents of any students to also sign up. This course focuses on medieval single sword based on a variety of historical sources. At the beginning of the course, students will use padded training swords exclusively, but if they demonstrate safe and responsible use of this equipment, they will earn the opportunity to use more realistic training swords.

Please contact me to sign up for this course or for more information.

Craig Shackleton
ottawaclassicalswordplay@gmail.com
http://ottawa-swordplay.blogspot.com/
613 715-9561

Youth Swordplay
Thursdays 6:45-7:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone.
May 20 - June 24 (six classes)
This is a foundations-level course in medieval swordplay for ages 9-15
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Other current courses:

Medieval Sword and Shield
Sundays, 10:15 - 11:45 am at the Glebe Community Centre
May 23 - June 27 (six classes)
This class focuses on the I.33 Tower Fechtbuch sword and buckler material.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Duelling with the Rapier
Thursdays 7:45-9:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone.
Note the time change on this course.
May 20  - June 24 (six classes)
This is our standard Rapier foundation program
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Duelling with Rapier and Dagger
Mondays 7:15-8:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone.
May 24  - June 28 (six classes)
This is an intermediate course, adding the use of the dagger to our basic rapier techniques.

News and Reminders for May

Rapier and Dagger class!

I have secured a time and place for the Rapier and Dagger course, meaning that in a few short weeks I will have three adult courses running. Rapier and Dagger will be on Monday evenings at the Knights of Columbus Hall starting on May 24^th. The new Medieval Sword and Shield and Duelling with the Rapier courses are also switching places and times, so Sword and Shield will be Sunday mornings at the Glebe Community Centre starting May 23^rd, and Rapier will be Thursday evenings at the KoC hall. More information for all three courses is below.

Discount for Multiple Courses!

I am offering a discount in the upcoming round of courses for people who sign up for more than one course! If you sign up for two courses together, take $20 off the total price. If you sign up for all three courses, take $50 off the total price. But wait, there's more! If you are renting equipment, you only pay one rental fee this cycle no matter how many courses you take.

Special class and photo shoot this Sunday.

This Sunday I will be running a special class at the Glebe Community Centre, starting at 10:00 am. This class is open to anybody who has ever come to any of my classes. Even if you haven't, it's a good opportunity to come by and see what we do! I will be mixing things up a bit and going over material from different sources with different weapons and combinations of weapons.

The other side of this is that I will have at least one person taking pictures throughout the class. I hope to use the best of these pictures for promotional purposes, like on the website. I may even take a few snippets of video of what we do for the same purpose. Because of that, I'll be asking everyone to sign a photo release form giving me permission to do so.

In addition, if anyone wants to come by and help take pictures, that would be great! The more photographers there are, the better chance we'll get the right shot at the right time from the right angle!

Sword and Shield Fight Night!

The turnout for the current round of Medieval Sword and Shield course was pretty low. That's okay, but there has been one student who has come to every class, and a few times he's been the only student. He's learned a lot, and his technique is pretty darned good. Now he just needs a few extra butts to kick!

Thursday May 13^th (next Thursday) is the last class of the course, and I want it to be mostly a fight night! To aid in this, I am inviting anyone who has done the I.33 sword and buckler material with me before to come out and fight. There is no charge, and if you need to borrow equipment, just let me know in advance.

My money is on the new guy. Last class he tagged me with the nucken out of mutacio gladii. Now he wants to do it to you!

Upcoming Class Schedule:

Medieval Sword and Shield
Sundays, 10:15 - 11:45 am at the Glebe Community Centre
May 23 - June 27 (six classes)
This class focuses on the I.33 Tower Fechtbuch sword and buckler material.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Duelling with the Rapier
Thursdays 7:45-9:15 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone.
Note the time change on this course.
May 20  - June 24 (six classes)
This is our standard Rapier foundation program
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Duelling with Rapier and Dagger
Mondays 7:15-8:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone.
May 24  - June 28 (six classes)
This is an intermediate course, adding the use of the dagger to our basic rapier techniques.

Contact me at ottawaclassicalswordplay@gmail.com to register for any of the above, or for any other information.

Update and Request

Call for photos, and photo shoot

I have a new website under construction, and I need some better photos for the site. If anyone has photos from previous classes or events that will be good for the site, please forward them to me! I have a number to sort through and scan myself, but most of my digital photos were lost in a computer crash a few years ago.

Also, anyone who wants to and can make it, please come to the class at the Glebe Community Centre on May 9th, 10:15- 11:45 am. I will be doing a little instruction, but I'll be mixing up what we are doing a bit so that we can get a variety of good photos. If there is time, I may get a little bit of video shot as well.

It's time to announce upcoming courses again!

Medieval Sword and Shield
Sundays, 10:15 - 11:45 am at the Glebe Community Centre
May 23 - June 27 (six classes)
This class focuses on the I.33 Tower Fechtbuch sword and buckler material.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Duelling with the Rapier
Thursdays 7:15-8:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone.
May 20  - June 24 (six classes)
This is our standard Rapier foundation program
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee $50

Duelling with Rapier and Dagger
To Be Announced
This is an intermediate course, adding the use of the dagger to our basic rapier techniques.
I am still trying to nail down a space for this. I am hoping for either Saturday afternoon or Monday night.

Contact me at ottawaclassicalswordplay@gmail.com to register for any of the above, or for any other information.

After School Program

I've finalized a lot of the details of the after school program. Here's the info from the poster I'll be setting up:

Medieval Swordplay

After School Program

by Ottawa Classical Swordplay

Fridays, 3:00 – 5:00 pm, April 9^th – June 25^th

at the Westboro Masonic Hall (430 Churchill Ave)

• 2:30 Pick up at Churchill Alternative School Available
  
• Quiet activities and supervision until 5:30 after program
  
• Historically Accurate swordplay lessons with safe, padded training swords
• Medieval crafts, games, history and activities
• Nutritious Snack provided
• $250 per child

To register, or for more information,

contact Craig Shackleton:

ottawaclassicalswordplay@gmail.com

http://ottawa-swordplay.blogspot.com

613 715-9561

If anyone wants a copy of the poster to distribute, I can give you a pdf.

Paypal available

For those who want to pay for a course with a credit or debit card, now you can! I can accept paypal payments to ottawaclassicalswordplay@gmail.com . Eventually I will have a full website with payment options, but for now, paypal is pretty effective, and automatically generates a receipt. If you ask, I can even send you a paypal invoice to make things easier.

Kids program and more!

I've taken some pretty solid steps towards getting a kids after-school program set up. It looks like it will be Fridays from 3pm-5pm (with some leeway at the end) at the Masonic Hall on Churchill.

Anyone who has attended one of our events at the Masonic Hall knows what a spectacular space this is, and they have continued to upgrade it. I'm delighted at the possibility of running programs there.

I am also planning an adult class to follow the kids program, at the same location. Details to follow!

A few notes about upcoming courses

Classes

There is still room in both classes. Email ottawaclassicalswordplay@gmail.com to sign up.

Equipment

Both classes require fencing masks, throat protection, and gloves with a long cuff. The rapier class requires an appropriate rapier, and the sword and shield class requires a buckler and appropriate sword. All of these items are provided with the $50 equipment fee

Alternatively, equipment packages cost $350 and include a new mask, your choice of a new sports throat protector or a second hand steel gorget, a new pair of leather gloves with cuffs, and either a rapier or a sword and buckler.

I currently have more swords and bucklers than rapiers on hand. The swords will work perfectly (and are historically appropriate) for the rapier class, but the rapier guards offer better hand coverage and a few more combat options.

This is the rapier:
http://www.casiberia.com/product_details.asp?id=SH1099

This is the sword, and the buckler:
http://www.alcheminc.com/scarfsword.html
http://www.alcheminc.com/bucklers.html

Fees and Memberships

I will accept payments by cash or cheque. Paypal coming soon.

I am also offering a four course flexpass. The cost is $400 and it will give you access to four courses this year of your choice, and free attendance to the R&D class. I'll also give you priority booking for new courses, and 20% off the price of any additional courses you choose to take.

Upcoming Courses!

Duelling with the Rapier
Sundays, 10:15 - 11:45 am at the Glebe Community Centre
March 21 - May 2, excluding Easter (although I may run a review class pending space)
For those of you who have done my previous rapier program, this is the current version. It is a blend of classical fencing and historical material from a variety of historical manuals.
Course cost: $100
Equipment Rental fee: $50

Medieval Sword and Shield
Thursdays 7:15-8:45 pm at the Knights of Columbus Hall, 1177 Gladstone.
March 25 - May 13 (note that this is an 8 week class)
This class focuses on the I.33 Tower Fechtbuch material which we have been focusing on lately.
Course cost: $125
Equipment Rental fee $50

Both courses are limited to a maximum of 14 students. I will make equipment packages (about $350) available for those who wish to buy their own equipment instead of renting.

To register, or for more information, email ottawaclassicalswordplay@gmail.com

Simple Breeches

This is a pattern and construction instructions for a pair of simple breeches. This is a 2-3 day project. An Assistant is nice, if you can get one, to help with the Fitting. This pattern requires some careful fitting around the crotch area to make breeches that are suitable for fencing.

Take the following measurements:

1. Natural Waistline ____ /2 = ____.
2. 
   
   • Hip ____/2 = ____

   OR

   • Circumfrence of Thigh just below crotch ____.

   Whichever is larger.

3. Navel to Crotch ____.
4. Crotch to below Knee ____ +10cm = ____.
5. Circumfrence of your Calf ____ / 2 = ____.
6. Waistband (A * 2) + 10cm = ____.
7. Cuff (E * 2) + 5 cm = ____

If you pick a lightweight fabric, such as cotton or a poly blend, make sure it isn't so sheer that folks will be reading your underwear label through it. If you can see your hand through it, other people will be able to see what else you have in there.

Whatever you choose, make sure it is soft enough that you can stand wearing it next to your skin for a period of time. Don't assume it will soften if you wash it.

The alternative is to line the pants with something that is not sheer and is comfortable next to your skin.

In addition to the pants you'll need to cut a waistband and knee cuffs. Make your waistband the length of your waist, plus two or three inches for overlap, and the knee cuffs should be the circumference of your calf just below the knee, plus two or three inches. Overall you'll probably
want about 2.5 to 3 yards of 45" fabric. I can get away with a 1.3 yards of 60" fabric but it depends on how poofy you want your pants to be.

You will also need 1-1.5 yards of wide ribon or tape to use to tie thecuffs closed and 9 buttons (or whatever number you prefer) for the fly.

Once you have all your measurements it's time to make your pattern.

The basic pattern that I use for my pants looks like this.To make your pattern get a big piece of paper (I like to use left over christmas wrap) and draw out a pattern for yourself based on your measurements. Once you have cut out the pattern, I strongly recomend that you make a mockup. Every one's shape is different and my pattern (or your drafting) may not take something about your shape into account or you may just decide that you want something baggier, tighter, shorter, taller or in some otherway different.

This pattern makes a very high waisted pair of pants (above the navel). If you are skinny, you may have problems keeping your pants from falling down to your hips. In our period the pants were generally attached to a doublet to hold them up. So if you aren't doing that, you may want to consider a pair of suspenders.

In addition to the pant pieces, you will also need 4 rectangles.

1. Waistband: F by 10cm.
2. Button flap: (2/3 C) by 10cm.
3. 2 Cuffs: G by 10cm.

Fold your fabric and put the pieces on it, remembering to leave at least
1cm for seam alowance.

Screw up your courage (for no Gentleman should be a coward) and cut your fabric.

If you are making a lining, you need to also cut out leg pieces from
your lining material.

Putting the pieces together:

Once you have your leg pieces (be they the mockups or the final pieces) you have to put them together.

Match up the two sets of front and back pieces Right side (the outside of the fabric) to right side (so that the inside of the fabric is visible) and inseam to inseam. You should have two sets that are mirror images of each other.

On each set match up f3 with b3 and f4 with b4 and sew them together. Then match up f1 with b1 and f2 with b2 and sew them together. You should leave the last bit open to create a slit and facilitate both a closure and getting your calves through. Once you have finished both sets, open them up and again right side to right side match up the two b5s. Sew your two leg pieces together from b5 over f/b3 to f6. Do not sew from f5 to f6. That's your fly. As a male, I want to remind people making this pattern to make sure the fly goes all the way down so as to facilitate answering nature's call. A normal length fly does not work with the hight waist. Turn them right side out.

You should now have something that resembles a pair of pants.

Now comes the moment of truth. Try them on. Keep in mind that without the waist band they are (hopefully) too big. hold them up to the correct height and try moving around in them. Is the crotch is too small? You can enlarge the crotch until they are the right size. Too large? Know anyone they might fit? The thighs should fit you, and not be too tight. If you think they might be a little snug, try sitting down in them. If you cut off circulation, consider starting again.

To enlarge the crotch, take note of where the problem is (not deep enough in back? In front? Giving you a terrific wedgie?) Turn the pants inside out and mark a new sewing line. Sew along it, and rip out the old seam. Try them on again before cutting any extra fabric away. You can't put extra fabric back after you've cut it. Take note of any changes that you make and apply them to your pattern pieces and you lining pieces so that you won't have to do this again.

If your efforts came out wrong, look at where it doesn't fit and try to analyze what mistake you made. Usually it's a measurement problem. Getting pants to fit right isn't the easiest of jobs. Use the first pair you made to calibrate against the next time. If you want, go ahead and mark all over them in pen where they didn't fit, and use that to make a better pattern for a pair that does fit. This is why it is nice to make up a mock up first.

If you are making a lining repeat the process with those pieces. Then stuff them into the pants right side in and tack them together at the waist band and the cuffs.

Assuming the pants aren't too small, There are four things left to do:

1. Add the button flap.
2. Put on the waist band
3. Put on the cuffs.


4. add the some sort of closures. Buttons and button holes are most
   appropriate but you can also get away with hooks and eyes.

Add the button flap as shown in the diagram. If you have a lining it goes between the lining and the outer fabric. On the otherside of the fly, the lining and the outer fabrick just get stiiched together with the raw edges turned in. The buttons are in the illustration just to show how the pieces will fit together. You will need more than three buttons.

Gather or pleat the waistline into the waistband. Try to keep the pleats symetrical. If you are making a lining, you should have it tacked to the outer fabric and should not cause problems.

The Cuffs are done the same way as the shirt. If you left a slit at the bottom of the legs and have no lining hem the edges (see Shirt instructions for sleeve cuffs). If you are using a lining, turn the raw edges of each under about ¼ inch and whipstitch them together to finish the slit.

Then attach the Cuff pieces as with the shirt except that the ends should be hemmed instead of sewn shut. Once you have sew on the cuff pieces thread a half your length of the ribbon or tape through it. This is what you will be using to close the cuff.

Finally, sew on your buttons and make your button holes. I think that 9 is a good number because you can figure out an even distribution just by folding.

This is done your new pants are finished. Wear them with pride and in comfort.

Shirt Pattern

So, the Shirt from Quetchia Crafts isn't cutting it any more. You want something poofier. Maybe you want something made of linen. Maybe you want it with a bit of lace on the collar. These instructions should help you realize your dreams.

These instructions are based on the instructions of D. Duperault which she has graciously allowed me to modify to my own ends.

This is a two-day project.

Shirts

Step 1: Take Measurements

1. Shoulder to knee ____ X2 = ____.
2. Shoulder to shoulder ____ x1.5 = ____;
   or your biggest circumference (e.g. chest, stomach or hips) ____ x0.75
   use which ever is larger.
3. Shoulder to wrist ____ +10cm = ____.
4. Circumference of neck ____ + 5cm = ____.
5. Circumference of wrist ____ + 5cm = ____.
6. Neck to shoulder ____ (the distance from the side of your neck to the end of your shoulder (where the dimple develops when you raise your arm)).

If your fabric is wide enough your pattern layout will look like the diagram and you can get away with just (A) cm of fabric. For example, My B = 75cm and my C = 35cm so I can pull off this cutting plan with 45" fabric.

If it is narrower you will need to figure out your layout slightly differently.

You will also need 2 yards of fine ribbon (1/8 or 1/4") or cord for ties.

Step 2: Select your fabric

For this project I suggest a fine cotton or linen, as nice as you can afford. If you're after the really drapery romantic look, consider a cotton gauze or fine silk. Try to limit your choice to a solid color, white and off-white work best, there is no evidence of colored shirts before about 1660. If you want the peasant look, use a tan or brown to simulate older, coarser fabric. Since this garment will go right next to your skin, buy something you will be comfortable in. Generally, synthetics will make you too hot or too cold in outdoor situations and should be avoided here.

Step 3: Get Started

Take measurement (C) and mark out two sleeve rectangles that long and and as wide as you want your sleeve to be poofy. D. Duperault. suggests 24" wide, I just make my sleeve a square to prevent the possibility of attaching the sleeve wrong. To get pleats to work out correctly for the cuff, try about 3 times your wrist measurement (which works out right for me).

Make sure your remaining fabric meets requirements for body measurement (A), and measurement (b). My preferred method for layout is to run the body piece the length of the fabric and then use the piece on the side for the sleeves.

Cut your body rectangle. Then cut your sleeve rectangles. Set any extra fabric aside for now as you will use it for the collar and cuff pieces.

Step 4: For the Shirt

At the center of the body piece, mark the horizontal cut for the neck-hole. Measure in F from each side on the center line and cut a straight line between the two. Then make a vertical cut down from the neck hole for the neck opening. You can make this cut as long or as short as your modesty suggests. There are period images with the slit going as far as the navel.

Step 5: Sleeves

Lay the sleeve pieces out with the length (C) running from right to left. Fold in half lengthwise to find the center, and mark it at each end. At one end of the sleeve you will attach the cuff, the other end is going on the shirt body.

Match up the center mark on the sleeves with the center line on the shirt body, right sides of the fabric together. Sew the sleeves on. You should have something that looks like a big X, with the two sleeves and the front and back of your shirt. If you want a more durable shirt you should make a more durable seam by french seaming or surging or something similar. This is recommended.

Sew the long seam from about 5-10 in on the wrist, along the sleeve, and down the sides of the shirt. Ditto on making these seams stronger.

On each sleeve, where you left the bit unsewn on the the wrist end will be the slit for the cuff. Hem this so that it cannot fray.

Gather or pleat the open end of each sleeve along the raw edges to fit your wrist measurement (E). You are now ready to fit the cuff.

It has been pointed out to me that some of you may not know how to pleat or how to gather. Pleating is fairly simple. The goal of pleating is to fold the fabric so it will fit along a smaller line. I'm going to suggest Box Pleating because it is the least likely to cause you problems with making sure your pleats are pointed the right way on each sleeve.

1. First start at the edge of the fabric and fold it over twice. Make the folds about as wide as your thumb.
2. Next measure out from the edge of the fold twice the distance and fold it back to meet the first fold.
3. Measure out twice the fold distance and fold it down and out.
4. Continue on in this manner until you reach the end of the fabric.
5. Fold under the end as you did with the start.

For other types of pleating try this site:
Period Pleats

For gathers, try here:
Sewing Ruffles and Gathers

Step 6: Collar and Cuffs

It really helps to have a hot iron at hand when making these pieces.

Cut the collar according to the illustrations, where the length of each piece is taken from measurement (D). The collar should be as tall as you want it (for a simple band collar say 3-5 cm) plus 1 cm in each direction as seam allowance (so, for example 5 cm tall would become 7cm).

You will need two collar pieces. Place them right sides together and sew along the ends and across one long side. Carefully flatten the collar and iron it. Test for fit by holding it around your neck. The ends should just meet, or overlap a little. You should feel like you can breath. It's okay to re-do the collar if you didn't get it right the first time.

Fold the bottom (open, unsewn) edge of the collar up as if you were going to hem it. Keep the fold straight and even, about 1 cm deep. Press it down with your fingers to hold it in place, and when you think you have it right, iron it flat.

Do the cuffs in the same way. Cut four cuff pieces the length of measurement (E) and as tall as you want it (for a simple band cuff say 3-5 cm) plus 1 cm in each direction as seam allowance (so, for example 5 cm tall would become 7cm). Place them in pairs right sides together and sew 1 cm from the edge on one long side and two short sides. Turn them right sides out. Flatten each cuff and iron it. Turn under the bottom edge about 1 cm and iron it, too.

Step 7: Adding the Cuffs

This part can be tricky. It's something that I still have to occasionally redo so don't get too worked up if it doesn't work right the first time. First: Open up each cuff piece and pin it to the outside of the shirt sleeve so that the raw edges are matched. Use pins to hold the gathers or pleats in place evenly. Sew the sleeve onto the cuff. Second: Then stitch down the inside of the cuff to the inside of the sleeve. It should look like the sleeve on a man's dress shirt. (note that the image is a cross section. Don't forget to sew the ends of your cuffs.

After each cuff is attached, lay out your ribbon and cut two lengths for each cuff. Stitch them on either side of the cuff so that it can be tied shut.

Step 8: Adding the Collar

The collar goes on much the same way as the cuffs.

Trim the horizontal slit with a slight curve from the edges to the center slit

Hem the edges of the center slit. When it is done it will kind of loop at the bottom, but it will look okay.

Open out the collar like you did with the cuff. Pin the ends to the corners at the center slit. Pin the center of the collar to the center back of the neck hole. Use whatever method you prefer to gather or pleat the neck hole evenly onto the collar. Sew the two together. Then sew down the inside to the collar to the inside of the shirt.

After the collar is attached, lay out your ribbon and cut two lengths. Stitch them on either side of the cuff so that it can be tied shut. You may want to add additional lengths on the center slit itself if you made a particularly long one.

Step 9: Finishing

You may want to knot the end of the ribbon ties, or use a product like Fray-check to keep them from unraveling with use.

If you have not done it yet, hem the bottom edge of the shirt by folding the fabric up half an inch, then again another half inch so all the raw edges are tucked under, then sewing it down.

Step 10: Things to do differently

• Add Lace and/or A Pleated Ruff to the Cuffs and Collar
  

Adding anything to the cuffs or collar is done in pretty much the same way. When you are sewing your cuffs together (outside in) add the bit you want between them with the part to show hidden and the seam allowance inside. Lace is almost trivial. Pleated Ruffs are a little harder. To make your ruff, first take a strip of fabric about twice as wide as you want the ruff to be (don't forget seam allowance) and about 3 times (or more if you want more complex pleating) as the cuff or collar you are attaching it to. Using a piece that is too long is always preferable to one that is too short. Sew up the ends, turn it inside out and Iron it. You can either pleat it by it self, sew it together and then sew it in like the lace or you can pleat it onto the cuff as you and thus sew it only once. The former is less complicated (for some) the latter takes less time (unless you make a mistake).

One thing that you should watch for because it will drive you crazy (even if no one else notices). Make sure you pleat the cuffs as mirror images of each other.

• Make a falling collar

Adding a falling collar is similar to adding anything to the simple band collar. You just make a rectangle the size of the collar you want, add a little bit to th width and attach it as above with a pair of pleats at the center back (see images above) to help the shape look right. You may have to play with it a bit to get it to look right on the target neck.

• Make French Cuffs

French cuffs are even simpler. Just make your cuffs longer than the suggested dimensions.

• Use Buttons instead of ribbons

I will assume that you can figure out how to put on a button. I am fond of small cloth buttons but go with what you like.

• Make tapered sleeves

To make a tapered sleeve, you will have to cut the arm pieces slightly differently. Once you have your arm rectangles, you need to cut the tapers then sew them back to the sleeve as shown in the diagram. Once you have the new sleeve piece, attach as normal.

Pritchard's Cavileres

Every year in January, we have a 12th Night celebration where we announce the winner of our annual fame game, eat fabulous food and entertain one another in some manner or other. Last year, when sending the invites for the dinner, The following was my commentary on the entertainments:

Please remember to prepare a performance piece that is appropriate to our period[1].

some sites with songs:
http://www.lukehistory.com/resources/ballads.html
http://www.theroutiers.org/culture/song.htm

poetry or short dramatic pieces are also encouraged as are filks of period songs (writing new words to old music was a very popular thing).

[1] There will be no chastisement[2] for people who perform out of
period works, but please try to make sure that whatever you choose has
no references to anachronism

[2] The exception is Barret's Privateers. Singing Barret's Privateers
will get you shot.

This is what two of our members came up with in response.

PRITCHARD'S CAVALIERS

Oh the year was 1638...
How I wish I was in England now!
When our orders came from Captain Brock
To drive the Spanish from their rock.

CHORUS:
Poor Farnshaw! He was told
We'd raid the isle for some Spanish gold
We'd fire our guns, drink some beer
He was left behind on a foreign pier
The last of Pritchard's Cavaliers.

We landed on the rocky shore...
How I wish I was in England now!
We charged the beach and fired our guns,
And in three heartbeats they were overun.
(chorus)

The Spaniards fell beneath our blades...
How I wish I was in England now!
Our losses they were very few
Except poor Philbert, who we barely new.
(chorus)

We stormed the fort and we took the gold...
How I wish I was in England now!
Snodrass fought like a man possessed
But he wore no armour upon his breast
(chorus)

Snodgrass was hit with a musketball...
How I wish I was in England now!
As he left this world he swore to his mates
He'd duel with the angels at the pearly gates
(chorus)

As we sailed away and we counted our crew...
How I wish I was in England now!
Young Farnshaw had been left behind
With the washerwoman who he wined and dined
(chorus)

He fought his way to a friendly town...
How I wish I was in England now!
He found two nice lasses to share his bed
But their father put a bullet into his head
(chorus)

Now Farnshaw died in his 17th year....
How I wish I was in ENGLAND NOW!
It's been 3 long years that he's been that old
Now he won't become a man and claim his father's gold
(chorus)

Lyrics by Glen and Craig Shackleton - 2006

They were not shot.

A discourse on the nature of the North Downs Musketeer Academy

Persons introduced in this discussion:

The Most Illustrious Thomas Pemberton, Gentleman Scholar.

and

The Most Excellent Captain Ernest Brock, Chief Instructor of the North Downs Musketeer Academy and Captain of Brock's Badgers.

T.P. Having long and greatly desired (my dear friend) to learn this noble science, and especially of you, who did put the first weapons into my hands: wherefore (seeing so good opportunity is so fitly presented) I could wish that we might spend this time at some discourse concerning North Downs Musketeer Academy, to the end that I might thereby, both the better retain the title which I have already learned, and also add some new lesson thereunto.

E.B. Of Course my friend, for that I have found you to be a man of a noble spirit as also to the end that hereafter when time shall serve, you may be better known unto sundry Gentlemen my good friends, I am content to yield unto your request, and therefore demand boldly any thing wherein you desire to be resolved.

T.P. Sir, I have no doubt that you will fail me in any part of your promise, for the which favor I acknowledge my self infinitely beholding unto you. I shall desire you therefore, according to your judgment and skill, to resolve and instruct me in such doubts as do occur unto me, for I know, and many noble men and Gentlemen do likewise know, that you are exquisitely able not only to resolve us of any doubt readily, but also to instruct us in this matter perfectly.

E.B. Sir, I desire nothing more than to please and satisfy you and such other Gentlemen my good friends, and therefore you may expound questions at your pleasure.

T.P. For as many years as I have known you, you have taken great pains in teaching the gentlemen who attend the North Downs Musketeer Academy. Pray, Explain to me what is the nature of your academy?

E.B. The North Downs Musketeer Academy is part of a loose association of Schools of Defense known as the The Company of Cavalier Gentlemen. The Membership is exclusive to those of the gentle classes as our schools are training grounds for those Gentlemen who may seek commissions in regiments of foot such as musket and pike or regiments of the horse such as dragoon or cuirassier. Many of our members have become Officers of note in the Trained Band known as Brock's Badgers. In addition to instruction in the art of defense, we also ensure that the Gentlemen of the Academy are lectured in etiquette to ensure that regardless of lack of prior education they will always comport themselves as the perfect Gentleman.

T.P. I am curious sir, as I have heard of other organizations whereby a man may learn of these things and of other things. Has your Academy or the Company itself any association with these other groups?

E.B. My deep friendship with you calms my Choler at such a question. We are associated with no other organization save those others in the Company of Cavalier Gentlemen. While we do maintain a friendly rivalry with some, Their ways are not our ways and the lessons we teach are often different in subtle ways. Our lessons in this noble Art are such that you may attain unto the perfect knowledge of this science. With this knowledge, you will survive the affairs of honor that you, as a Gentleman, will find your self in.

T.P. Dear friend, I thank you and do quickly withdraw my words that your choler might be further reduced. Still, I stand here perplexed. I am new to the company of so many Gentlemen. What are these Affairs of Honor of which you speak?

E.B. Your words calm me and thus we shall speak no more of such things. The Affair of Honor is the means whereby a man may rebuke and injury or defend his words. At one time we would appeal to some representative of His Majesty and be given opportunity to settle such things with a Judicial Duel. In the dark days we now live in, it is sometime necessary for a Gentleman to see to his honor himself. To that end, in the company we have men, designated as Presiders who may stand in judgment over a duel. These men insure that all proper forms are met that Honor might be satisfied in a Just and Proper duel.

T.P. With this knowledge, I am satisfied that such lessons in the Art of defense are necessary, and yet I am concerned. How might a man practice without risk to his person?

E.B. As I was taught by my master, we learn with blunted swords that we may not draw the blood of our fellows. We wear on our necks Gorgets crafted by men of skill and cover our faces with a mask of steel mesh that no blow may cause grievous harm. Sill, as was discovered by the noble Achilles, no armor is perfect. To that end, the most perfect armor we fight with is that of control. We should know the nature of our selves and our swords and in using our control help keep our fellow scholars from harm.

T.P. Dear Friend, I am satisfied that I might learn of the sword in safety. I have decided that I wish to join your company. Pray tell me the requirements of a Scholar.

E.B. Certainly sir. Each scholar pays to the Academy the sum of $50, once per quarter for a total of $200 a year. With these monies we provide a space to play and equipment for those gentlemen who have not yet found equipment that meets their high standards. Gentlemen are expected to wear stout black breeches and a white shirt. Good shoes suitable for these athletic endeavors should be worn on the feet that they might better meet the floor, and gloves should be worn on the hands that they might better grip the sword. It is expected that gentlemen will occasionally want to wear other finery, but such things are discouraged as both Vanity and Envy distract one from swordplay.

T.P. You have shared with me the requirements of attendance, but I have no knowledge of the nature of your lessons. Will you tell me of them? What will you teach me when I attend?

E.B. A Gentleman's first four lessons are those of the foundation of the system which we teach. On his fifth lesson he will be tested of his knowledge of the lessons. Any man who has learned this foundation so that it be second nature to him will find himself in an excellent to defend both his person and his honor.

T.P. But tell me sir of courtesy, those which have not been your scholars and yet have learned some manner of the Art, are they therefore required to learn this foundation?

E.B. In truth sir, while they may learn and conceive much their learning will be hindered and without the foundation which I will reveal unto you are they are not so capable as those whom I have taught. The true foundation verily and the true beginning from whence you may learn all things belonging to this art, is in these lessons, and from it will I begin, and you shall perceive of what great importance this beginning is, and how without it hardly or never any commeth to true skill and perfection. For this reason all must learn our foundation.

T.P. You have with so many reasons and proofs shewed the necessity of this foundation, that in truth I greatly esteem and honor it, and could wish that every man of honor would seek to know it and practice it, that it might be more esteemed: but now that I know the excellence of these lessons, I learn them. To this end, I have in my position a sword of quality. Might I use this weapon in my lessons?

E.B. Bring this weapon to your first lesson. Be it blunted and safe as so judged by my eye and that of my Provost Marshal you may use this weapon for your lessons. Be aware that your weapon should be of a length with those of your fellow scholars that you will be able to use it to defend your honor. Should your blade, with it's length confer advantage, it falls to your opponent to allow or refuse it.

T.P. I understand that within the Academy and also within the Company, men are ranked by fame and their names are known to all. How is done?

E.B. Each year all of the gentlemen participate in a Fame Game that we might know who among us exemplifies those gentlemanly qualities which we all hold in esteem. When a gentleman acts in the cause of honor or assists another gentleman to that purpose, he may garner Fame for him self or shine his light on his fellows. The gentleman who, at the end of the year, has become the most famous is awarded a prize that he may be recognized by his fellow Gentlemen.

T.P. Is it necessary that I participate in this game? Surely amongst scholars such as those in your academy I will have no cause to defend my honor.

E.B. You have moved a question whereof I am grieved to speak, when I consider the number of scholars and friends I have lost through incorrect application of our foundations. Men, being imperfect creatures, may never be wholly free from giving offence to another. In this we are lucky for what reason would we have to practice the art of defense if no man would ever try and offend us?

T.P. You have with so many reasons and proofs shewed the necessity of this worthy game, that in truth I greatly esteem and honor it, and could wish that every man of honor would seek to know it and practice it, that it might be more esteemed. I do note that you speak only of Gentlemen, are your lessons such that only Men may attend?

E.B. Such is the nature of our time that only Men wear swords and are expected to defend their honor. While some may think it strange I believe that women too may achieve an excellence with arms to match that of Diana. However as a courtesy to all, and as an indication of the respect we bear them, lady Scholars are treated as one would treat any other Gentleman.

What is the North Downs Musketeer Academy?

The North Downs Musketeer Academy is one of the aspects of Ottawa Classical Swordplay. It is a group dedicated to historical recreation of the dueling culture of England prior to the English Civil War.

From it's own perspective:

The North Downs Musketeer Academy is part of a loose association of Schools of Defence known as the The Company of Cavalier Gentlemen. The Membership is exclusive to those of the gentle classes as our schools are training grounds for those Gentlemen who may seek commissions in regiments of foot such as musket and pike or regiments of the horse such as dragoon or cuirassier. Many of our members have become Officers of note in the Trayned Band known as Brock's Badgers.

In many ways the Company may be seen as a crucible where we may be purfied of our baser and less worthy qualities. The onus is upon the student of the Company to forever prove their eligibility for instruction. It is only when we become complacent in such matters that we begin to slide into error.

Members of the Company will receive instruction in proper and effective use of the Rapier, the weapon of a Gentleman. The rapier is used to demonstrate a person's rank as well as to settle disagreements between Gentlemen that are not otherwise solvable. In the words of our Founder, M. Jean Louis "A Gentleman who is not competent with this weapon is a Gentleman who is unprepared to meet the rigorous demands of honour." Moreover, The Gentlemen of the Company will also receive instruction in the arts of war, necessary for those hoping to take their place as an officer.

In addition, our Academy also ensures that Gentleman know how to conduct themselves in all social situations. Knowing the importance of a Gentleman's honour, we pay particular attention in insuring that Gentlemen know how to conduct themselves in a duel so that both their own and the Company's honour is maintained.