Shirt Pattern

So, the Shirt from Quetchia Crafts isn't cutting it any more. You want something poofier. Maybe you want something made of linen. Maybe you want it with a bit of lace on the collar. These instructions should help you realize your dreams.

These instructions are based on the instructions of D. Duperault which she has graciously allowed me to modify to my own ends.

This is a two-day project.

Shirts

Step 1: Take Measurements

1. Shoulder to knee ____ X2 = ____.
2. Shoulder to shoulder ____ x1.5 = ____;
   or your biggest circumference (e.g. chest, stomach or hips) ____ x0.75
   use which ever is larger.
3. Shoulder to wrist ____ +10cm = ____.
4. Circumference of neck ____ + 5cm = ____.
5. Circumference of wrist ____ + 5cm = ____.
6. Neck to shoulder ____ (the distance from the side of your neck to the end of your shoulder (where the dimple develops when you raise your arm)).

If your fabric is wide enough your pattern layout will look like the diagram and you can get away with just (A) cm of fabric. For example, My B = 75cm and my C = 35cm so I can pull off this cutting plan with 45" fabric.

If it is narrower you will need to figure out your layout slightly differently.

You will also need 2 yards of fine ribbon (1/8 or 1/4") or cord for ties.

Step 2: Select your fabric

For this project I suggest a fine cotton or linen, as nice as you can afford. If you're after the really drapery romantic look, consider a cotton gauze or fine silk. Try to limit your choice to a solid color, white and off-white work best, there is no evidence of colored shirts before about 1660. If you want the peasant look, use a tan or brown to simulate older, coarser fabric. Since this garment will go right next to your skin, buy something you will be comfortable in. Generally, synthetics will make you too hot or too cold in outdoor situations and should be avoided here.

Step 3: Get Started

Take measurement (C) and mark out two sleeve rectangles that long and and as wide as you want your sleeve to be poofy. D. Duperault. suggests 24" wide, I just make my sleeve a square to prevent the possibility of attaching the sleeve wrong. To get pleats to work out correctly for the cuff, try about 3 times your wrist measurement (which works out right for me).

Make sure your remaining fabric meets requirements for body measurement (A), and measurement (b). My preferred method for layout is to run the body piece the length of the fabric and then use the piece on the side for the sleeves.

Cut your body rectangle. Then cut your sleeve rectangles. Set any extra fabric aside for now as you will use it for the collar and cuff pieces.

Step 4: For the Shirt

At the center of the body piece, mark the horizontal cut for the neck-hole. Measure in F from each side on the center line and cut a straight line between the two. Then make a vertical cut down from the neck hole for the neck opening. You can make this cut as long or as short as your modesty suggests. There are period images with the slit going as far as the navel.

Step 5: Sleeves

Lay the sleeve pieces out with the length (C) running from right to left. Fold in half lengthwise to find the center, and mark it at each end. At one end of the sleeve you will attach the cuff, the other end is going on the shirt body.

Match up the center mark on the sleeves with the center line on the shirt body, right sides of the fabric together. Sew the sleeves on. You should have something that looks like a big X, with the two sleeves and the front and back of your shirt. If you want a more durable shirt you should make a more durable seam by french seaming or surging or something similar. This is recommended.

Sew the long seam from about 5-10 in on the wrist, along the sleeve, and down the sides of the shirt. Ditto on making these seams stronger.

On each sleeve, where you left the bit unsewn on the the wrist end will be the slit for the cuff. Hem this so that it cannot fray.

Gather or pleat the open end of each sleeve along the raw edges to fit your wrist measurement (E). You are now ready to fit the cuff.

It has been pointed out to me that some of you may not know how to pleat or how to gather. Pleating is fairly simple. The goal of pleating is to fold the fabric so it will fit along a smaller line. I'm going to suggest Box Pleating because it is the least likely to cause you problems with making sure your pleats are pointed the right way on each sleeve.

1. First start at the edge of the fabric and fold it over twice. Make the folds about as wide as your thumb.
2. Next measure out from the edge of the fold twice the distance and fold it back to meet the first fold.
3. Measure out twice the fold distance and fold it down and out.
4. Continue on in this manner until you reach the end of the fabric.
5. Fold under the end as you did with the start.

For other types of pleating try this site:
Period Pleats

For gathers, try here:
Sewing Ruffles and Gathers

Step 6: Collar and Cuffs

It really helps to have a hot iron at hand when making these pieces.

Cut the collar according to the illustrations, where the length of each piece is taken from measurement (D). The collar should be as tall as you want it (for a simple band collar say 3-5 cm) plus 1 cm in each direction as seam allowance (so, for example 5 cm tall would become 7cm).

You will need two collar pieces. Place them right sides together and sew along the ends and across one long side. Carefully flatten the collar and iron it. Test for fit by holding it around your neck. The ends should just meet, or overlap a little. You should feel like you can breath. It's okay to re-do the collar if you didn't get it right the first time.

Fold the bottom (open, unsewn) edge of the collar up as if you were going to hem it. Keep the fold straight and even, about 1 cm deep. Press it down with your fingers to hold it in place, and when you think you have it right, iron it flat.

Do the cuffs in the same way. Cut four cuff pieces the length of measurement (E) and as tall as you want it (for a simple band cuff say 3-5 cm) plus 1 cm in each direction as seam allowance (so, for example 5 cm tall would become 7cm). Place them in pairs right sides together and sew 1 cm from the edge on one long side and two short sides. Turn them right sides out. Flatten each cuff and iron it. Turn under the bottom edge about 1 cm and iron it, too.

Step 7: Adding the Cuffs

This part can be tricky. It's something that I still have to occasionally redo so don't get too worked up if it doesn't work right the first time. First: Open up each cuff piece and pin it to the outside of the shirt sleeve so that the raw edges are matched. Use pins to hold the gathers or pleats in place evenly. Sew the sleeve onto the cuff. Second: Then stitch down the inside of the cuff to the inside of the sleeve. It should look like the sleeve on a man's dress shirt. (note that the image is a cross section. Don't forget to sew the ends of your cuffs.

After each cuff is attached, lay out your ribbon and cut two lengths for each cuff. Stitch them on either side of the cuff so that it can be tied shut.

Step 8: Adding the Collar

The collar goes on much the same way as the cuffs.

Trim the horizontal slit with a slight curve from the edges to the center slit

Hem the edges of the center slit. When it is done it will kind of loop at the bottom, but it will look okay.

Open out the collar like you did with the cuff. Pin the ends to the corners at the center slit. Pin the center of the collar to the center back of the neck hole. Use whatever method you prefer to gather or pleat the neck hole evenly onto the collar. Sew the two together. Then sew down the inside to the collar to the inside of the shirt.

After the collar is attached, lay out your ribbon and cut two lengths. Stitch them on either side of the cuff so that it can be tied shut. You may want to add additional lengths on the center slit itself if you made a particularly long one.

Step 9: Finishing

You may want to knot the end of the ribbon ties, or use a product like Fray-check to keep them from unraveling with use.

If you have not done it yet, hem the bottom edge of the shirt by folding the fabric up half an inch, then again another half inch so all the raw edges are tucked under, then sewing it down.

Step 10: Things to do differently

• Add Lace and/or A Pleated Ruff to the Cuffs and Collar
  

Adding anything to the cuffs or collar is done in pretty much the same way. When you are sewing your cuffs together (outside in) add the bit you want between them with the part to show hidden and the seam allowance inside. Lace is almost trivial. Pleated Ruffs are a little harder. To make your ruff, first take a strip of fabric about twice as wide as you want the ruff to be (don't forget seam allowance) and about 3 times (or more if you want more complex pleating) as the cuff or collar you are attaching it to. Using a piece that is too long is always preferable to one that is too short. Sew up the ends, turn it inside out and Iron it. You can either pleat it by it self, sew it together and then sew it in like the lace or you can pleat it onto the cuff as you and thus sew it only once. The former is less complicated (for some) the latter takes less time (unless you make a mistake).

One thing that you should watch for because it will drive you crazy (even if no one else notices). Make sure you pleat the cuffs as mirror images of each other.

• Make a falling collar

Adding a falling collar is similar to adding anything to the simple band collar. You just make a rectangle the size of the collar you want, add a little bit to th width and attach it as above with a pair of pleats at the center back (see images above) to help the shape look right. You may have to play with it a bit to get it to look right on the target neck.

• Make French Cuffs

French cuffs are even simpler. Just make your cuffs longer than the suggested dimensions.

• Use Buttons instead of ribbons

I will assume that you can figure out how to put on a button. I am fond of small cloth buttons but go with what you like.

• Make tapered sleeves

To make a tapered sleeve, you will have to cut the arm pieces slightly differently. Once you have your arm rectangles, you need to cut the tapers then sew them back to the sleeve as shown in the diagram. Once you have the new sleeve piece, attach as normal.