Simple Breeches

This is a pattern and construction instructions for a pair of simple breeches. This is a 2-3 day project. An Assistant is nice, if you can get one, to help with the Fitting. This pattern requires some careful fitting around the crotch area to make breeches that are suitable for fencing.

Take the following measurements:

1. Natural Waistline ____ /2 = ____.
2. 
   
   • Hip ____/2 = ____

   OR

   • Circumfrence of Thigh just below crotch ____.

   Whichever is larger.

3. Navel to Crotch ____.
4. Crotch to below Knee ____ +10cm = ____.
5. Circumfrence of your Calf ____ / 2 = ____.
6. Waistband (A * 2) + 10cm = ____.
7. Cuff (E * 2) + 5 cm = ____

If you pick a lightweight fabric, such as cotton or a poly blend, make sure it isn't so sheer that folks will be reading your underwear label through it. If you can see your hand through it, other people will be able to see what else you have in there.

Whatever you choose, make sure it is soft enough that you can stand wearing it next to your skin for a period of time. Don't assume it will soften if you wash it.

The alternative is to line the pants with something that is not sheer and is comfortable next to your skin.

In addition to the pants you'll need to cut a waistband and knee cuffs. Make your waistband the length of your waist, plus two or three inches for overlap, and the knee cuffs should be the circumference of your calf just below the knee, plus two or three inches. Overall you'll probably
want about 2.5 to 3 yards of 45" fabric. I can get away with a 1.3 yards of 60" fabric but it depends on how poofy you want your pants to be.

You will also need 1-1.5 yards of wide ribon or tape to use to tie thecuffs closed and 9 buttons (or whatever number you prefer) for the fly.

Once you have all your measurements it's time to make your pattern.

The basic pattern that I use for my pants looks like this.To make your pattern get a big piece of paper (I like to use left over christmas wrap) and draw out a pattern for yourself based on your measurements. Once you have cut out the pattern, I strongly recomend that you make a mockup. Every one's shape is different and my pattern (or your drafting) may not take something about your shape into account or you may just decide that you want something baggier, tighter, shorter, taller or in some otherway different.

This pattern makes a very high waisted pair of pants (above the navel). If you are skinny, you may have problems keeping your pants from falling down to your hips. In our period the pants were generally attached to a doublet to hold them up. So if you aren't doing that, you may want to consider a pair of suspenders.

In addition to the pant pieces, you will also need 4 rectangles.

1. Waistband: F by 10cm.
2. Button flap: (2/3 C) by 10cm.
3. 2 Cuffs: G by 10cm.

Fold your fabric and put the pieces on it, remembering to leave at least
1cm for seam alowance.

Screw up your courage (for no Gentleman should be a coward) and cut your fabric.

If you are making a lining, you need to also cut out leg pieces from
your lining material.

Putting the pieces together:

Once you have your leg pieces (be they the mockups or the final pieces) you have to put them together.

Match up the two sets of front and back pieces Right side (the outside of the fabric) to right side (so that the inside of the fabric is visible) and inseam to inseam. You should have two sets that are mirror images of each other.

On each set match up f3 with b3 and f4 with b4 and sew them together. Then match up f1 with b1 and f2 with b2 and sew them together. You should leave the last bit open to create a slit and facilitate both a closure and getting your calves through. Once you have finished both sets, open them up and again right side to right side match up the two b5s. Sew your two leg pieces together from b5 over f/b3 to f6. Do not sew from f5 to f6. That's your fly. As a male, I want to remind people making this pattern to make sure the fly goes all the way down so as to facilitate answering nature's call. A normal length fly does not work with the hight waist. Turn them right side out.

You should now have something that resembles a pair of pants.

Now comes the moment of truth. Try them on. Keep in mind that without the waist band they are (hopefully) too big. hold them up to the correct height and try moving around in them. Is the crotch is too small? You can enlarge the crotch until they are the right size. Too large? Know anyone they might fit? The thighs should fit you, and not be too tight. If you think they might be a little snug, try sitting down in them. If you cut off circulation, consider starting again.

To enlarge the crotch, take note of where the problem is (not deep enough in back? In front? Giving you a terrific wedgie?) Turn the pants inside out and mark a new sewing line. Sew along it, and rip out the old seam. Try them on again before cutting any extra fabric away. You can't put extra fabric back after you've cut it. Take note of any changes that you make and apply them to your pattern pieces and you lining pieces so that you won't have to do this again.

If your efforts came out wrong, look at where it doesn't fit and try to analyze what mistake you made. Usually it's a measurement problem. Getting pants to fit right isn't the easiest of jobs. Use the first pair you made to calibrate against the next time. If you want, go ahead and mark all over them in pen where they didn't fit, and use that to make a better pattern for a pair that does fit. This is why it is nice to make up a mock up first.

If you are making a lining repeat the process with those pieces. Then stuff them into the pants right side in and tack them together at the waist band and the cuffs.

Assuming the pants aren't too small, There are four things left to do:

1. Add the button flap.
2. Put on the waist band
3. Put on the cuffs.


4. add the some sort of closures. Buttons and button holes are most
   appropriate but you can also get away with hooks and eyes.

Add the button flap as shown in the diagram. If you have a lining it goes between the lining and the outer fabric. On the otherside of the fly, the lining and the outer fabrick just get stiiched together with the raw edges turned in. The buttons are in the illustration just to show how the pieces will fit together. You will need more than three buttons.

Gather or pleat the waistline into the waistband. Try to keep the pleats symetrical. If you are making a lining, you should have it tacked to the outer fabric and should not cause problems.

The Cuffs are done the same way as the shirt. If you left a slit at the bottom of the legs and have no lining hem the edges (see Shirt instructions for sleeve cuffs). If you are using a lining, turn the raw edges of each under about ¼ inch and whipstitch them together to finish the slit.

Then attach the Cuff pieces as with the shirt except that the ends should be hemmed instead of sewn shut. Once you have sew on the cuff pieces thread a half your length of the ribbon or tape through it. This is what you will be using to close the cuff.

Finally, sew on your buttons and make your button holes. I think that 9 is a good number because you can figure out an even distribution just by folding.

This is done your new pants are finished. Wear them with pride and in comfort.

Shirt Pattern

So, the Shirt from Quetchia Crafts isn't cutting it any more. You want something poofier. Maybe you want something made of linen. Maybe you want it with a bit of lace on the collar. These instructions should help you realize your dreams.

These instructions are based on the instructions of D. Duperault which she has graciously allowed me to modify to my own ends.

This is a two-day project.

Shirts

Step 1: Take Measurements

1. Shoulder to knee ____ X2 = ____.
2. Shoulder to shoulder ____ x1.5 = ____;
   or your biggest circumference (e.g. chest, stomach or hips) ____ x0.75
   use which ever is larger.
3. Shoulder to wrist ____ +10cm = ____.
4. Circumference of neck ____ + 5cm = ____.
5. Circumference of wrist ____ + 5cm = ____.
6. Neck to shoulder ____ (the distance from the side of your neck to the end of your shoulder (where the dimple develops when you raise your arm)).

If your fabric is wide enough your pattern layout will look like the diagram and you can get away with just (A) cm of fabric. For example, My B = 75cm and my C = 35cm so I can pull off this cutting plan with 45" fabric.

If it is narrower you will need to figure out your layout slightly differently.

You will also need 2 yards of fine ribbon (1/8 or 1/4") or cord for ties.

Step 2: Select your fabric

For this project I suggest a fine cotton or linen, as nice as you can afford. If you're after the really drapery romantic look, consider a cotton gauze or fine silk. Try to limit your choice to a solid color, white and off-white work best, there is no evidence of colored shirts before about 1660. If you want the peasant look, use a tan or brown to simulate older, coarser fabric. Since this garment will go right next to your skin, buy something you will be comfortable in. Generally, synthetics will make you too hot or too cold in outdoor situations and should be avoided here.

Step 3: Get Started

Take measurement (C) and mark out two sleeve rectangles that long and and as wide as you want your sleeve to be poofy. D. Duperault. suggests 24" wide, I just make my sleeve a square to prevent the possibility of attaching the sleeve wrong. To get pleats to work out correctly for the cuff, try about 3 times your wrist measurement (which works out right for me).

Make sure your remaining fabric meets requirements for body measurement (A), and measurement (b). My preferred method for layout is to run the body piece the length of the fabric and then use the piece on the side for the sleeves.

Cut your body rectangle. Then cut your sleeve rectangles. Set any extra fabric aside for now as you will use it for the collar and cuff pieces.

Step 4: For the Shirt

At the center of the body piece, mark the horizontal cut for the neck-hole. Measure in F from each side on the center line and cut a straight line between the two. Then make a vertical cut down from the neck hole for the neck opening. You can make this cut as long or as short as your modesty suggests. There are period images with the slit going as far as the navel.

Step 5: Sleeves

Lay the sleeve pieces out with the length (C) running from right to left. Fold in half lengthwise to find the center, and mark it at each end. At one end of the sleeve you will attach the cuff, the other end is going on the shirt body.

Match up the center mark on the sleeves with the center line on the shirt body, right sides of the fabric together. Sew the sleeves on. You should have something that looks like a big X, with the two sleeves and the front and back of your shirt. If you want a more durable shirt you should make a more durable seam by french seaming or surging or something similar. This is recommended.

Sew the long seam from about 5-10 in on the wrist, along the sleeve, and down the sides of the shirt. Ditto on making these seams stronger.

On each sleeve, where you left the bit unsewn on the the wrist end will be the slit for the cuff. Hem this so that it cannot fray.

Gather or pleat the open end of each sleeve along the raw edges to fit your wrist measurement (E). You are now ready to fit the cuff.

It has been pointed out to me that some of you may not know how to pleat or how to gather. Pleating is fairly simple. The goal of pleating is to fold the fabric so it will fit along a smaller line. I'm going to suggest Box Pleating because it is the least likely to cause you problems with making sure your pleats are pointed the right way on each sleeve.

1. First start at the edge of the fabric and fold it over twice. Make the folds about as wide as your thumb.
2. Next measure out from the edge of the fold twice the distance and fold it back to meet the first fold.
3. Measure out twice the fold distance and fold it down and out.
4. Continue on in this manner until you reach the end of the fabric.
5. Fold under the end as you did with the start.

For other types of pleating try this site:
Period Pleats

For gathers, try here:
Sewing Ruffles and Gathers

Step 6: Collar and Cuffs

It really helps to have a hot iron at hand when making these pieces.

Cut the collar according to the illustrations, where the length of each piece is taken from measurement (D). The collar should be as tall as you want it (for a simple band collar say 3-5 cm) plus 1 cm in each direction as seam allowance (so, for example 5 cm tall would become 7cm).

You will need two collar pieces. Place them right sides together and sew along the ends and across one long side. Carefully flatten the collar and iron it. Test for fit by holding it around your neck. The ends should just meet, or overlap a little. You should feel like you can breath. It's okay to re-do the collar if you didn't get it right the first time.

Fold the bottom (open, unsewn) edge of the collar up as if you were going to hem it. Keep the fold straight and even, about 1 cm deep. Press it down with your fingers to hold it in place, and when you think you have it right, iron it flat.

Do the cuffs in the same way. Cut four cuff pieces the length of measurement (E) and as tall as you want it (for a simple band cuff say 3-5 cm) plus 1 cm in each direction as seam allowance (so, for example 5 cm tall would become 7cm). Place them in pairs right sides together and sew 1 cm from the edge on one long side and two short sides. Turn them right sides out. Flatten each cuff and iron it. Turn under the bottom edge about 1 cm and iron it, too.

Step 7: Adding the Cuffs

This part can be tricky. It's something that I still have to occasionally redo so don't get too worked up if it doesn't work right the first time. First: Open up each cuff piece and pin it to the outside of the shirt sleeve so that the raw edges are matched. Use pins to hold the gathers or pleats in place evenly. Sew the sleeve onto the cuff. Second: Then stitch down the inside of the cuff to the inside of the sleeve. It should look like the sleeve on a man's dress shirt. (note that the image is a cross section. Don't forget to sew the ends of your cuffs.

After each cuff is attached, lay out your ribbon and cut two lengths for each cuff. Stitch them on either side of the cuff so that it can be tied shut.

Step 8: Adding the Collar

The collar goes on much the same way as the cuffs.

Trim the horizontal slit with a slight curve from the edges to the center slit

Hem the edges of the center slit. When it is done it will kind of loop at the bottom, but it will look okay.

Open out the collar like you did with the cuff. Pin the ends to the corners at the center slit. Pin the center of the collar to the center back of the neck hole. Use whatever method you prefer to gather or pleat the neck hole evenly onto the collar. Sew the two together. Then sew down the inside to the collar to the inside of the shirt.

After the collar is attached, lay out your ribbon and cut two lengths. Stitch them on either side of the cuff so that it can be tied shut. You may want to add additional lengths on the center slit itself if you made a particularly long one.

Step 9: Finishing

You may want to knot the end of the ribbon ties, or use a product like Fray-check to keep them from unraveling with use.

If you have not done it yet, hem the bottom edge of the shirt by folding the fabric up half an inch, then again another half inch so all the raw edges are tucked under, then sewing it down.

Step 10: Things to do differently

• Add Lace and/or A Pleated Ruff to the Cuffs and Collar
  

Adding anything to the cuffs or collar is done in pretty much the same way. When you are sewing your cuffs together (outside in) add the bit you want between them with the part to show hidden and the seam allowance inside. Lace is almost trivial. Pleated Ruffs are a little harder. To make your ruff, first take a strip of fabric about twice as wide as you want the ruff to be (don't forget seam allowance) and about 3 times (or more if you want more complex pleating) as the cuff or collar you are attaching it to. Using a piece that is too long is always preferable to one that is too short. Sew up the ends, turn it inside out and Iron it. You can either pleat it by it self, sew it together and then sew it in like the lace or you can pleat it onto the cuff as you and thus sew it only once. The former is less complicated (for some) the latter takes less time (unless you make a mistake).

One thing that you should watch for because it will drive you crazy (even if no one else notices). Make sure you pleat the cuffs as mirror images of each other.

• Make a falling collar

Adding a falling collar is similar to adding anything to the simple band collar. You just make a rectangle the size of the collar you want, add a little bit to th width and attach it as above with a pair of pleats at the center back (see images above) to help the shape look right. You may have to play with it a bit to get it to look right on the target neck.

• Make French Cuffs

French cuffs are even simpler. Just make your cuffs longer than the suggested dimensions.

• Use Buttons instead of ribbons

I will assume that you can figure out how to put on a button. I am fond of small cloth buttons but go with what you like.

• Make tapered sleeves

To make a tapered sleeve, you will have to cut the arm pieces slightly differently. Once you have your arm rectangles, you need to cut the tapers then sew them back to the sleeve as shown in the diagram. Once you have the new sleeve piece, attach as normal.

Pritchard's Cavileres

Every year in January, we have a 12th Night celebration where we announce the winner of our annual fame game, eat fabulous food and entertain one another in some manner or other. Last year, when sending the invites for the dinner, The following was my commentary on the entertainments:

Please remember to prepare a performance piece that is appropriate to our period[1].

some sites with songs:
http://www.lukehistory.com/resources/ballads.html
http://www.theroutiers.org/culture/song.htm

poetry or short dramatic pieces are also encouraged as are filks of period songs (writing new words to old music was a very popular thing).

[1] There will be no chastisement[2] for people who perform out of
period works, but please try to make sure that whatever you choose has
no references to anachronism

[2] The exception is Barret's Privateers. Singing Barret's Privateers
will get you shot.

This is what two of our members came up with in response.

PRITCHARD'S CAVALIERS

Oh the year was 1638...
How I wish I was in England now!
When our orders came from Captain Brock
To drive the Spanish from their rock.

CHORUS:
Poor Farnshaw! He was told
We'd raid the isle for some Spanish gold
We'd fire our guns, drink some beer
He was left behind on a foreign pier
The last of Pritchard's Cavaliers.

We landed on the rocky shore...
How I wish I was in England now!
We charged the beach and fired our guns,
And in three heartbeats they were overun.
(chorus)

The Spaniards fell beneath our blades...
How I wish I was in England now!
Our losses they were very few
Except poor Philbert, who we barely new.
(chorus)

We stormed the fort and we took the gold...
How I wish I was in England now!
Snodrass fought like a man possessed
But he wore no armour upon his breast
(chorus)

Snodgrass was hit with a musketball...
How I wish I was in England now!
As he left this world he swore to his mates
He'd duel with the angels at the pearly gates
(chorus)

As we sailed away and we counted our crew...
How I wish I was in England now!
Young Farnshaw had been left behind
With the washerwoman who he wined and dined
(chorus)

He fought his way to a friendly town...
How I wish I was in England now!
He found two nice lasses to share his bed
But their father put a bullet into his head
(chorus)

Now Farnshaw died in his 17th year....
How I wish I was in ENGLAND NOW!
It's been 3 long years that he's been that old
Now he won't become a man and claim his father's gold
(chorus)

Lyrics by Glen and Craig Shackleton - 2006

They were not shot.